It smells like a chip shop in here......

Yes pop-pickers after 6 days steaming the hull my mood has lifted somewhat as the boats underbelly has finally moved off the top of the moisture meter only to about 20 which is still massive but good to see nonetheless.

Finally work's picked up so not much will be happening this week, but i want to get on fairing the cabin tops and decks in the evenings although i'm having real problems with condensation at the moment so am toying with more vents but up near the eaves.

Got the foredeck and cabin roofs sheathed this week as well as the hull drying so really want to keep the momentum, i also took delivery of the rope clutches and organisers (from pacer marine an excellent ebay store for marine hardware) for the coachroof as i want to get on making the necessary joinery pieces to attach these items.

I am using Barton marine fittings to outfit the boat and spars with as i feel they provide the best quality/price point for my needs, for hatches i'm using a French firm called Goiot again as their prices and quality seem to be in the realms of reality.

What with the setback of the hull not drying i have divided the boat project along the rubbing strakes so for now i will carry on rebuilding the deck with all that that entails and when the readings are satisfactory then i will resume the work on the hull.

I'm realizing the need to be more flexible with this project and think the last few posts are a reflection of that, i just wish i made more of the good weather we've had this year, oh well as long as something's getting done, those keels will get fitted one day.

Getting really bored of this now.

My goals for this year were to get the hull dried and sheathed, get the keel stubs strengthened and the keels attached, get the boat off the cradle and back down on the ground, fill and fair the hull and deck with an eye to priming and if the weather was good maybe topcoat too.

Well, the theory was great seeing as work is up and down i thought i would get quite alot done, but from the above all i have is the keel stubs ticked off the list......oh yeah i forgot i wanted to mount the engine too, so that's something else.

I don't know what its going to take to get the readings down in the green but i'm fast running out of ideas, the new heater pads work a treat, its literally uncomfortable to stand near them at 100 degrees celcius - thought i had it made but no: left them on for a day and still no difference on the meter, so back to the drawing board.

I went off to the b&q and resolved to spend more money (i don't have) on four cheap wall paper strippers as this is a cheaper way of creating steam than a hot washer £80 vs £700 to buy or £200 a week to hire........"yeah can i call you back,"......i mean where do they get these prices from?

Anyway spent today (Mon) taping down the hull around the waterline creating a big skirt, fired up the strippers and have left them to boil the hull up. I'm going back to the idea of draw ng the moisture out by 'opening' the laminate up then washing off with fresh water at the end of each day.

I don't know whether it will take a few more weeks or the rest of the year but with money tight its not much fun and incredibly boring spending so much time and resources on this one particular problem.

cheers

A right good decking!

I knew there would come a time when i had to do this but seeing as i was waiting for some more hose for the vacuum system i couldn't get on testing the new heater pads so i thought there no time like the present to tackle the fore deck.

The problem, to walk the fore deck with the boat stationary makes you feel seasick, like walking across a waterbed, the solution is to chop out the rotten core and replace with lashings of wests and marine ply.

Brimming with confidence having re-read an PBO article about a chap re-coring the deck of an old motor cruiser i did what i always do and reach for the tools that make the most noise, (damage) dust (damage) and....eh damage.

Having drawn a line 50 mm in from the edge all the way around the foredeck i reached for the grinder, then on looking at how clean the shed was and thinking how long it took to get it to that state i pulled out the jigsaw instead.

I successfully cut a 1 mm line all the way round then got busy with the chisels and wedges - would you believe it, the bond was incredible despite it being polyester and rotten and 40 years old it took all my strength (after quartering the original cut line) to pull out two pieces that made half the deck.

Now the damage could be seen, all the usual suspects: black balsa core, rotten plywood plank that looked like no adhesive whatsoever had been applied to it and a very strong vinegar smell . i decided to follow the route of the plank towards the fore-cabin and realised i'd need to take more of the deck moulding off.

With these last two pieces removed i could start making the core pieces and get them dry fitted, this went fairly quick so after double checking my prep and one last time with the hot air gun it was time for epoxy.

I don't know what it is about this stage in the work but no matter how well i set the tools and materials out it always ends up a bit of a bun fight, this particular job was to be no different. After more careful consideration of the west's manual todays recipe would be thickened with 407 (low density) and 402 (milled glass blend) the last one in particular as it would make the mix a lot more viscous therefore i wouldn't need to chase the stuff around the foredeck.

In the PBO article the chap uses big stones to way everything down, i had air pressure at my disposal so having made what looked like a very messy sandwich i wiped as much excess of the deck as i could (as i by now it was gelling) and got the peel ply and vac bag on.

With a flick of a button the deck pulled down an absolute treat and i now have a deck that's as stiff as a stiff thing with additional stiffeners, all i need do now is grind a 12:1 in the joint lines tape and fill.

Its been a while.................

Indeed it has, work has got in the way, had to do it though given the economic situation but in meantime i got my head around the latest failure with the heat pads and got two custom made, they cost 200 pounds each but have a temperature range of 0-260 degrees celcius so i will get on the case this coming week.

What else.........oh yes i started to turn the boat shed back into a boat shed from a pig sty. This mainly involved digging the old floor up all three tonnes of it and installing a floating floor all the way around the boat.

To do this i first needed to remove the diagonal supports from inside and put them outside to free up the space so with my good friend the post drill i excavated four holes a metre deep to act as the piling i would bolt the new supports to.

With these uber-supports made and installed it was time to turn my attention to the floor, after much ringing-around suppliers i got the best price i could for the timber and flooring even with discounts it still gobsmacked me how much timber has gone up - about 35% incredible.

Here's the result of a couple of days work from last week, this job cost 350 pounds in all ,250 for the flooring materials and 100 for the timber to make the external supports, considering i'm working very infrequently it was a bit of a tussle with my head.

That said i don't want the project to grind to a halt as that's when the motivation stops and it becomes another abandoned project and to be honest i have been feeling a little bored at the moment i think largely due to boat shed looking like a student house so part of the process to get re-energised was to create a more professional environment to work in.

I managed to use a lot of materials i already had left over from various jobs i had done so in the process freed up much-needed space in my wood shed which is no bad thing.

I found i was wasting a lot of time going back and forth to the workshop to get tools and materials so i built a bloody great cupboard at one end of the boat shed to store all the day today stuff (abrasives, power tools, resins acetone etc).

With the floor in i set about building the aluminium towers and parking them adjacent to the boat ready for me to re-core the fore-deck, more of that in a while.

Its drying time............................

Yep its now time to get serious about getting the water out of the hull seeing as i want to potentially paint the hull at the end of the summer but first as has been the case all along with this project many hoops need to be jumped through.

Firstly i need to get the moisture levels in the wetted areas down to between 5 - 10 parts on the Tramex at present the bow and stern areas are around 7-10 whilst the underside area is still off the scale of the moisture meter.

I tried previously using carbon heat film which whilst proving successful in its implementation had reduced the levels insufficiently, i think there maybe a couple of reasons for this

Either the Tramex is faulty, (i'll need a calibration kit from nigel clegg to check the machine) or it may well be that the boat is still so sodden that it needs a lot of heat even with the vacuum process to vaporise the water trapped in the laminate.

My latest heat pad led me back to using a previously discarded heat element which comprises o f heat cable, i say previously discarded as when used before it was in an early design that weighed so much it would fall off the hull so thought it was part of the problem.

However after trying to destructively test the heating film to diagnose the lack of heat, it led me to conclude that there must be some kind of limiting mechanism on the film as i couldn't get it above 30 odd degrees.

When i tried the same process with the heat cable it went off the clock! all the way past 80 degrees at which point i bottled it fearing i'd bugger up either the cable of the thermostat controller so having seen what was possible with the heat cable option i built a lighter version of one of my first designs.

It is done, the keel stubs that is.

Yes the port side stub is finished too now and not before time, got it painted inside too check out the piccies. now its onto the outside and the engine bay, i've bought some mild steel tubing the same diameter as the prop shaft so i can start roughing out where the engine bearers are going.

in the meantime i've turned my attention to finishing off drying the hull out, the latest version of which is proving the best so far, lightweight, efficient and stable at higher temperatures and still only a couple of hundred quid to make.

i should point out to get to this stage i have spent a bit of money researching and building different ideas only to find out they didn't work for one reason or another but the one i have working on the hull at present seems to be doing the job.

I have this system on the hull which i intend to leave for 72 hours, (at time of writing i am half way through this) if the moisture readings are good i will then set up a bigger heating source to cover the entire bottom of the hull and provide details of how its done.

cheers roger

Light at the end of the tunnel

Finally the gods are smiling as of yesterday i finished the starboard keel stub save for removing the Plasticine i used to block up bolt holes & all of it painted too.

I decided to use epoxy based garage floor paint for the bilges (purchased on ebay) - good price too £40 for two gallons plus postage still worked out at about £4.80 a litre which i thought was pretty good value versus the usual marine 'heist' of £25 a litre for pretty much the same stuff.

The port side is nearly done too, just need to sand back and paint as i finished tabbing it all in yesterday so -touch wood- i shall have both stubs done early part of next week then on into the engine bay to make and fit bearers and battery boxes.

To be honest i'm finding it hard to stay motivated at the moment i think because of the general lack of work about and the nature of the work on the boat its hard to keep my mind on the job. Plus with all the heat, the scratching and the general covering myself in wests then washing down with acetone everyday, (all in 35 degree heat inside the shed) its not much fun.

Looking forward though, after the engine bay is done the next part will be 'modding' the deck moulding to take new lockers, hatch surrounds and companionway hatch plus a lot of filling and fairing, but at least there will be air flow!

I drew out the new lockers on the cockpit seats the other day to see where everything was going and found a bit of inspiration in the process. I'm putting a gas locker in one side and storage for the outboard and tender on the other, it looked pretty good.

Also got round to mounting my 50kg roll of cloth on Tuesday, it works like a dream thanks to an old piece of scaffold pole i cut down and a couple of roller bearings bought off ebay.

cheers