Now Google Plus is dead, I've provided links to the originals on my facebook page, the link is now changed on the right called 'Photo Album' I've done it year by year as to link to several hundred albums will take forever.
I will eventually set up a site for the albums independent of Google, FB etc as i can't keep doing this every few months. If there's any specific pictorial information anyone wants, message me and i'll dig it out.
Cheers
Hi Roger.
ReplyDeleteGlad to see you are still keeping up your invaluable site. Too much information to be lost.
I started back on my Centaur project in November 2018, after a 2 year hiatus. Too far into it now to not complete it, but still about 2 years before launch.
I have lost track of the he original waterline. I am getting close to finishing fairing the bottom. Could I bother you for a vertical measurement from the bottom of the keel to he top of your boot stripe at mid-keel? I think I can use a rotating laser from there.
Thanks for your help and inspiration.
Best wishes
Eric
Hi Eric
ReplyDeleteGood to hear from a fellow Centaur builder. I definitely needed the break i was losing my mind. Its been about two years for myself since i did anything on the boat. But the same as you: i'm in too deep not to finish so it'll get done. Just came back from a walk along the beach and seen a load of boats out which got the motivation going again.
Just gone back through my posts as i did mine with a laser, i measured down from the underside of the teak strake vertically in the middle of the transom and at 760mm (30") is where the water meets the hull. At the stem again measuring directly under the stem fitting down 1270mm (50") is where the water meets the hull there.
I've taken a midship keel to waterline measurement and get a figure of 1075mm, (42 & 5/16") interestingly that's nowhere near the design draft of 3 foot. The stem and stern measurements i took from a handful of Centaurs scum lines (actual water marks) that hadn't been pressure washed off the hull instead of the actual anti-fouling line which tended to be about 100mm higher than that.
From memory there was a deviation of around 20mm, (3/4"). I remember one centaur so nose-heavy the transom was clear of the water so a lot depends how the boats are trimmed i guess but overall the measurements (apart from that boat) were very close to each other.
cheers mate
P.S. I looked for you a while back on the web and couldn't find you, send me a link to your site when you have the time and i'll post it in my 'links' section.
Thanks for the numbers. Will see what line that gives me tomorrow. No Centaurs here for reference (Portland, Oregon). I will try to get some current pics posted soon. A website savvy friend of mine has a boat in the same yard and took some pics a few weeks ago. I will ask him to post to his site, which is: Bristol27.com.
ReplyDeleteHe has just returned to work on his project, as well, after a hiatus to renovate a duplex he bought.
Best wishes.
Eric
Hi Roger. Would you be so kind as to tell me what core material you used to “sharpen” the leading and trailing edges of the keels. I believe I read that you reduced the leading edge to a 10mm radius. I don’t know about the radius or the shape of the trailing edge. Any help would be appreciated. Hope you are continuing to bank motivation and money for the final push. Eric
ReplyDeleteHi Eric
ReplyDeleteFirstly i need to make the leading edges a bit more blunt as it'll create too much drag as they are. But essentially both edges are 3mm thick epoxy glass plate bonded down the centre line front and back and then filled out / profiled with some 410 microlight thickened epoxy.
Cheers
Thanks. I’ve been considering using G-10 strips. Seems very similar. Should I leave the leading edge alone, in terms of radius?
ReplyDeleteI dunno, my leading edges were really uneven from where i joined the keels back to the hull and had to fair a reasonable line back in, except it never looked right. Hence the idea that culminated in the huged boomeranr shaped plates made for each edge, its just they're too fine and need a little blunting.
ReplyDeleteIf yours are in good shape i wouldn't bother, its just like a lot of things in my world - i sort one problem and inadvertantly create four more................
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipOZ3JRH9T7Ti758a_ZV_jvzuL2y7Poek-scpP54
The above is the glass plate hot glued to the original front edge of the keel. I then knocked up an icing bag of seriously thickened (cabosil) epoxy and squirted a nice fat fillet both sides of each plate all the way along on both keels.
Hope that helps
Cheers mate
Hi Roger.
ReplyDeleteI extended the trailing edge of the keels by 3.5 inches with 0.5 inch thick G-10 plate, tapered it to 1/8 inch and faired it with high density filler. Also glassed in with 2x5.6oz S-glass on both sides. My question is how you determined the plane in which to fair the new shape to retain or improve the foil shape. Because it is so swept back, I’m unsure if I should fair perpendicular to the trailing edge or linear to length of the keel.
Thanks for any insight. Eric
Kymeric78@gmail.com
ReplyDeleteThank you so much!!!
Hi Roger.
ReplyDeleteI reviewed your pics and I think I have the fairing process figured out.
Thanks for offering to send me details. I’m sure you have other things to do.
Still working with my friend to compile an album of my crazy project.
Best wishes.
Eric
Sorry mate i totally forgot, paid works been a bit hectic. FWIW i went perpendicular on both the trailing edges and leading edges. I then - using a fairing batten - filled out both edges back towards the keel both ends to keep the profiles fair.
ReplyDeleteRoger